Helm Watches Vanuatu: Stainless Steel vs. Titanium
“Heavy is good; heavy is reliable. If it doesn’t work, you can always hit them with it. ”
Ask many military people, and we will let you know that Boris was onto something. However, this adage can be misleading in the military as most tools and materials we use are "overbuilt." The term "military grade" is thrown around a lot, but most of the stuff the military uses takes wear and abuse into account, often resulting in cumbersome and uncomfortable gear. Everything is metal, rigid plastics, and synthetics; it is on us, around us, and unavoidable.
We learn to love discomfort.
Helm Applies Super-LumiNova BGW9 like their lives depend on it.
As I make my way into the watch enthusiast's world, I no longer want to compromise comfort for durability. As a newer watch enthusiast, you might have some questions about metals and their wearability. I will compare the two Helm Vanuatus, one 316L stainless steel, and one grade II titanium, and let you know if either of the metals affords more comfortable wear.
Helm Watches first came to my attention when I came across this banger from Jody at Just One More Watch. Seeing Helm's Vanuatu for the first time made me realize that I was into designs that feature sharp contrast, legibility, great lume, and a rugged build design. I needed to learn more about the brand, so I went deep diving to get the best sense of Helm and its timepieces.
During my deep dive, Helm already had the stainless steel (316L) version of Vanuatu available for purchase, albeit via a first come, first serve drop date. That was a complete debacle. The system locked up, and I was not able to order one. Since then, Helm has gone to a waitlist system, of which I immediately took advantage. I signed up and received my waitlist position; it was 1100 or so, and then I waited.
A lack of patience on my part and the kindness of our community led me to a third-party purchase of the Stainless Steel Vanuatu. Around that time, Helm announced the release of the titanium (grade 2) Vanuatu, and I happily occupied spot 1211 in the queue. Around a year and a half later, I received an e-mail from Helm letting me know there was a titanium Vanuatu for me to purchase, and the rest is history.
Stainless steel and titanium offer very different wear experiences. Most of my early wear experiences were with stainless steel, which influenced my initial feelings about titanium. Stainless steel is a heavier metal than titanium, and the disparity in weight let doubt creep into the quality of the titanium model, even though I knew the properties associated with both metals. Lighter than stainless steel, titanium is more durable, anti-magnetic, and heat-resistant. Titanium is just as capable as stainless steel, don't let the weight fool you.
For the newer enthusiast, I recommend experiencing both metals early and often in your journey and checking out these excellent articles about metals and titanium, specifically by Matt Reudink from A Blog to Watch. Both will provide you with enough information to understand the capabilities of each metal, as well as a few others.
I do not mind a heavier watch, and wearing the stainless steel Vanuatu was enjoyable. The 207.66 grams was reassuring, akin to a weighted blanket-if you know, you know. For reference, I am 6'2", 255 lbs (on a good day), and have a 7 1/2" (19.05cm) wrist. The stainless steel model is well-balanced and the 50.2 mm lug-to-lug distance made for a comfortable wear experience.
The titanium Vanuatu measurements are nearly identical to the stainless steel model: 42mm case diameter, 46mm with the crown. 14mm case thickness with a 22mm lug width. The one glaring difference is the titanium's weight of 138.26g! The subtraction of the additional weight makes the titanium model disappear on the wrist, which is no small accomplishment given the Vanuatu’s size.
The last and most crucial difference between the two models is the finishing. While Helm lists, both model finishes as "brushed," there is a noticeable matte effect to the titanium model that I enjoy. The stainless steel model has a luster that comes across well in photos and provides a warm feel to the wear experience. Both are excellently finished, and feel like they belong at a higher price point.
Ultimately, as I am sure it is for most watch enthusiasts, I had to decide: which Vanuatu would I keep? As you have read earlier, I sold the stainless steel model. The decision came down to the finished appearance of the titanium model and the overall weight. I love the matte appearance of the grade II titanium, and that 69g difference in weight is substantial!
Again, I recommend handling both metals for the newer watch enthusiast before determining what is right for you. For some people, weight equals reliability.
Just ask Boris.
